Mt. Shuksan, in Washington State. Target for the climb is July/August. More detail to follow, but the plans to tackle Shuksan are just coming together.
“Mt. Shuksan epitomizes the jagged alpine peak like no other massif in the North Cascades…[it] has no equal in the range when one considers the structural beauty of its four major faces and five ridges…There is no other sample in the American West of a peak with great icefall glaciers derived from a high plateau, and in the Pacific Northwest it is the only non-volcanic peak whose summit exceeds timberline by more than 3000 feet….Shuksan is one of the finest mountaineering objectives in the North Cascades and its reputation is certainly deserved; a wide variety of challenges can be encountered on this quite complex mountain. The climber has a choice of rock walls, moderate firnfields, steep ice, and easy scrambling. Despite a sometimes-forbidding appearance, Shuksan has yielded 14 routes, numerous variations, and impressive subsidiary climbs, including some directly up dangerous ice cliffs.”
Excerpted from “Cascade Alpine Guide : Climbing and High Routes : Rainy Pass to Fraser River” by Fred Beckey.