A well written article from Outdoor magazine on the 2012 season at Everest. You should absolutely read it here.
Two interesting concepts out of this article. The first and most interesting is that accurate weather reporting has led to a better prediction of the good weather days for a summit attempt. With that prediction, more teams will try and make the push on the same day, creating the traffic jam at the Hillary Step and other places…as we saw in 2012 (and before). The second is that poorly prepared climbers are lured by less than serious guiding outfits that focus more on profit than safety.
The author spent his time at Everest base camp this year, so the article has a well founded base in reality, at least as the author saw it from base camp.
Ed Viesturs is well known in the climbing community, holding a number of summit records and having written a number of books (all of which I recommend, they are great reading). In light of the above, The Atlantic Monthly decided to do a short piece on Ed and his bottled-oxygen-less climb of Everest in 1990. You can read the article HERE.
The one takeaway that strikes me most from his writings and speeches is this one quote: “Getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory.”
This is pretty self-explanatory.
Lonnie Dupree is soloing Mt. McKinley in January.
“It’s a personal challenge,” Dupre says, “and also a way to bring attention to the world’s receding glaciers and climate change.”
Check out this great article about his upcoming climb in Mountain (magazine).